Winchester 94 Centennial Manual

The goal of this tutorial is to teach the reader how to disassemble a Model 94 in order to make minor repairs or perform major cleaning. Tools needed are (1) a small punch, and (2) a set of hollow-ground screwdrivers.

Many shooting/reloading supply companies sell sets of hollow-ground gunsmith screwdrivers or bits. I use a Lyman Magdriver which comes with seven hollow-ground bits in its handle. It costs about $20. Lyman won't sell just the bits so when I break a bit or need one not supplied, I buy el cheapo Wal-Mart bits and flatten the tips with my bench grinder. If you don't have a bench grinder, use a file.

As the graphic shows, regular screwdriver bits are wedge shaped. Use one on a firearm screw and get a boogered-up screw head. Don't say I didn't warn you.

Almost all parts shown in this tutorial are available from Winchester Parts and Service (1-800-322-4626), Brownells www.brownells.com and Numrich www.e-gunparts.com.

Brownells also sells a gun-specific set of screwdriver bits:

• Winchester 94 Top Eject 6 bits only = #080-087-014 = $9.67
  with handle = #080-087-009 = $17.40
• Winchester 94 Angle Eject 5 bits only = #080-087-013 = $8.53
  with handle = #080-087-008 = $16.07

The Brownells site offers a free, clear, exploded view diagram they call a 'Schematic.' Click the 'Schematic' tab at the top of the main page, then follow directions. I used '94 Top Eject- S/N Above 2,700,000 Schematic ID# 351.' The Numrich site offers exploded view diagrams but with a 99¢ download fee. So if Brownells doesn't sell a part or has it on backorder, I open the Brownells schematic in one browser window and the Numrich parts-listing page in another window.

You'll need your rifle's serial number in order to see the proper schematic. Note: both of these sites and other sites I checked use the same Winchester terminology for each part. In other words, although each company might have a different part number for a 'Finger Lever Link Pin,' that name gets you the same part from each company.

For the purpose of this tutorial I have listed the Brownells retail price for each part, when available. I did that easily because I saved the proper Brownells schematic web page to my computer's desktop. Offline, I can open the page and there's the schematic and the parts listing. You should do the same. An exploded view is handy when trying to put something back together. Hint hint.

In Internet Explorer, in the upper left-hand corner of the window click 'File.' When the tab opens, click 'Save As. . . .' and save the web page to your desktop or wherever. (Don't worry. The only thing actually on your desktop will be a little clickable icon.)

The Model 94 shown here is circa 1976 with SN 4,537,XXX. I call it my 'woods/heart attack rifle.' You can read much more about it here.

We start with removal of the magazine tube and forearm. Here we see my finger pushing down the 'Magazine Plug' ($10.42) and a screwdriver removing the 'Magazine Plug Screw' ($1.79).

I'm pushing the plug down because the 'Magazine Spring' ($7.31) is under tension. If you don't hold the plug down, parts will fly everywhere when the spring pops out.

See what I mean there, Vern?

That's the 'Magazine Spring' sticking out of the 'Magazine Tube' ($24.30) and that's the plug and screw in my hand. Remove the spring, then point the end of the tube down and the 'Magazine Follower' ($5.35) should fall out. It's a thimble-like device which rides up and down the Magazine Tube on top of the last cartridge in the magazine. If the follower doesn't fall out, open the bolt, stick your finger in the action, then give the end of the follower a little push.

Now we loosen the 'Front Band' ($15.50) by removing the 'Band Screw, Front' ($1.79).

Yes, that Magdriver bit is too small.

The Front Band out of our way, let's look at a potential problem spot.

This photo shows the notches in the barrel and in the Magazine Tube. The Front Band Screw passes through the notches and, basically, prevents the Magazine Tube from falling out of the rifle. It shows wear on the rear portion caused by the barrel moving backward under recoil while Newton's First Law of Motion kept the tube at rest.

This close up shows the wear on the tube. I alleviate the wear by snugging an Uncle Mike's sling swivel barrel band against the Front Band rear side. It absorbs most of the recoil, preventing further wear.

A couple of years after the above photo was taken I discovered a better way to handle recoil wear on both the barrel and the front band. I took the mag tube to the local NAPA store and bought an o-ring to fit. (NAPA # 727-2015 o-ring) By snugging the o-ring between the front band and the mag tube band it stopped the wear problem.

If you like a free-floating mag tube for better accuracy, install an o-ring or face excessive wear.

Next we loosen the 'Rear Band, Carbine' ($15.50) by removing the 'Band Screw, Rear.'

The Magazine Tube will now slide forward out of the 'Forearm, Standard, Walnut' ($38.23). If it doesn't, wiggle it until it's free.

From left to right, we see the:

• Magazine Spring
• Magazine Follower
• Magazine Plug
• Magazine Plug Screw
• Front Band
• Band Screw, Front
• Rear Band
• Band Screw, Rear
• Magazine Tube
• Forearm
• Woods Rifle's barrel leaning against my bench.

Let's start taking the action apart.

We begin by removing the 'Tang Screw' ($5.03) and then removing the stock. The screw out, wiggle the stock and pull rearward at the same time. You might have to give it a knock with your knuckles. You might even have to wiggle, pull, knock, and twist. But it should come off without much trouble.

The Tang Screw is the only screw holding it.

Here we see the stock (It's a Ram-Line) pulled backward and about to fall off.

Take note of the coil mainspring trigger/tang assembly on this rifle SN 4,537,XXX. All the Model 94 parts lists I've read clearly state that flat mainspring trigger/tang assemblies are used on rifles SN 4,580,000 and below. Here we see more evidence of the shadetree gunsmith who once worked on this rifle. He probably had the coil mainspring assembly on a junker rifle and put it on this rifle—at the new price, I would bet.

This close up of a portion of the above photo shows the side of the receiver. The 4 screws we will remove are numbered in the order in which we will remove them. They are:

1. 'Link/Hammer Screw' ($1.80)
2. 'Finger Lever Pin Stop Screw' ($2.61)
3. 'Link/Hammer Screw' ($1.80) [same screw as above]
4. 'Carrier Screw' ($2.59)

• Williams #1853: 8-40 x .125' Plug Screw @ .55¢ each (I sell them now. Click here.)
• Williams #1759: 8-40 Carbon Tap @ $5.05

Put the hammer at half-cock. Then out comes the 'Link/Hammer Screw.' Known here as #1 or the hammer screw.

With the screw out and the hammer still on half-cock, wiggle the trigger/tang assembly while pulling down. It's a tight fit against the walls of the receiver, but it will eventually come out. When it does, set it aside.

Now we remove the 'Finger Lever Pin Stop Screw.' Known here as #2 or the finger lever pin stop screw. Be careful. It's a short little fellow and easy to lose.

Here we see a close up of the 'Finger Lever Pin Stop Screw' hole with the screw removed. (And with stripped scope mounting holes on each side.) In the center of the hole you can see one end of the 'Finger Lever Pin' ($2.60). This short pin holds the lever in the bolt and also holds the firing pin in the bolt. It's important. But it's easy to remove if you pay attention to the following instructions: