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The Linhof Technika 70 was intended for both hand-held and tripod-mounted work, it has aspects of fast-handling press cameras and technical stand cameras. It was especially suitable for location work in the areas of industrial and commercial photography. For hand-held use the camera has a very large finder showing frames for three lenses, combined with the finder is a coupled rangefinder. Linhof Master Technika 4x5 kit Serial number 6425111 A beautiful Master techika camera outfit with a Linhof selected Schneider Symmar 5.6 / 150mm lens. The master technica can be easy recognized by the top flap which gives wide angle lenses more movement space. Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for 【N MINT New Bellows】Linhof Master Technika 4x5 Camera 180mm f/5.6. Serial number BODY: 80989 LENS.
Linhof Technika:4x5 Used Buying Guide
Tech III,Tech IV, Tech V,Master,2000,Recognizing Cams, Disassembly, Used Buying Guide, ConversionsRangefinder Focusing
Unsurpassed precision and quality in a Technical Field Camera.That's what the Linhof Technika is all about. Strangely enough, there is little information available to help you choose the best one for you or even identify the different models. This guide aims to help.
Technika History to Tech III
Interestingly enough, Linhof actually INVENTED the all metal field camera. In the beginning was the Linhof Technika I and II. Forget them as modern user cameras. Not worth discussing here except to say their serial #'s preceded 19,000. They are black square cameras with no bright metal trim. No Technikas before the III had built in RF. Now you know what to avoid.
Popularly Technikas are often referred to as 'Press Cameras' since they are so similar to the Speed/Crown Graphics and offer such comparatively fast 4x5 operation. This will drive purest nuts, since technically speaking, Press Cameras do not have back movements. 'Technical Field Camera' is a more correct technical description. OK, so it's a cheap pun---I couldn't resist. Graflex made me do it.
Linhof Technika Serial Number Camera Nikon
The modern Technika III was introduced in 1946. Unfortunately there were FIVE different Technika III's bearing the same 'Tech III' designation!!
The first 1946 Tech III had all the essential III features including
- VERY Rugged precision metal construction, the proverbial brick shit house. It's difficult to over-emphasize this point. The later models are even stronger!
- Quick and Easy setup from closed storage position to picture taking position. This is an important field advantage that all Linhof Technikas/Speed Graphics/Crown Graphics have over monorail cameras.
- All III's use the same lens board (not usable on the IV and later cameras)
- Front backward base tilt, but NOT Front forward tilt. This was changed in the Tech IV and later to optical center tilts, forward or backward
- 15 Degree Front Swings L/R
- 70 mm Front rise (Version 5)
- 20 mm Front L/R slide
- Back swings and tilts, but NOT back rise/fall or shifts
- Triple Extension Bellows
- Rotating back
- Tech III's usually have black leather, but I have also seen factory dark green.
- While the III does not have front forward tilts, you can remedy the problem by swinging it over on its side. This turns the swings into tilts.
- The III does have one idiosyncrasy which I could do without. Users are expected to mark infinity stops on the focusing track by FILING notches into the track. Strange, but true.
Linhof introduced interchangeable Rangefinder Cams on the III.Change a lens, change the cam, and you still have RF focusing. That's the good part. The bad part is that EACH Tech III had to be matched to EACH lens. In other words, III (and IV) cams are not interchangeable with different lenses or cameras. Sometimes you might luck out and it will work out OK, but it will be luck. Linhof no longer grinds III or IV cams, but a talented photo machinist can still make them for you. If that you want to use modern lenses with RF focusing, the III is not your best and easiest choice. Of course the III is still a fine choice with ground glass focusing.
A lightweight alternative is to remove the rangefinder/cam assembly in order to lighten the camera and reduce its size. It's not as hard as it might sound. If you can work on your car, you should be able to rangefinder in an afternoon's work--just a few screws here and there. This is an especially smart move if you shoot modern lenses and can't get any cams ground for them anyway. After you remove it, it's easy to cover area with leatherette.
There are FIVE Tech III's, ALL called the Tech III!With the rangefinder, it's a Super Technika, without RF it's a Technika -- or so say the old Linhof manuals, so I pass on their terminology. Serial #'s are approximate and may not be accurate because factory records were not always accurate, according to Bob Solomon of HP marketing, the US importer of Linhof.
- Version 1 of 1946It introduced the pronounced 'U' shaped front standard. RF housing is square with no flash bracket. Square Body design. Serial #'s 2021 to 2555, and 22556 to 23880.
- Version 2 of 1950Flash bracket introduced on RF housing. RF housing now angled rather than squared design. Body still square. Serial #'s started 30001.
- Version 3 of 1951 Body now has curved edges. Ending Serial # 37104.
- Version 4 of 1953Knob locks for back movements are now located on top of camera. Introduced drop bed. From Serial # 50,0001.
- Version 5 of 1955Much stronger body design. Front door is no longer flat, but rather a reinforced angular design. Now the camera has RF focusing wheels on both sides. Essentially this version amounts to a type IV body with III type front movements. Ending serial # 62235. Introduced the international or Graflok back which could be retrofitted to earlier cameras. SEE PICS
Common Tech III Aging Problems: Keep in mind that the youngest III's are 40 plus years old, and they have probably seen a very busy and profitable commercial life.
- Original Leather Bellows usually have lots of pinholes or tears. Replacing the bellows can be expensive. For minor holes, go down to the hardware store and buy a can of black Plasti Dip. It's liquid plastic. It works. Be careful to use it sparingly, a little goes a long ways. Too much and your bellows will not fold properly. If the bellows is destroyed and you are on a budget you might consider trying to install a more durable synthetic bellows from a Graphic press camera. I think it could probably be done, but I have never tried it. Note that the you would lose bellows draw with such a conversion.
- The outside leather is often worn and torn. Try Neatsfoot oil to bring the leather back to life. It can be re-cemented with the rubber glue you find in the stationary department of your local drug store. In the US, Tandy sells a line of leather refinishing materials which can make a big cosmetic difference.
- Rust can be a problem if the camera has not been stored properly. Clean it off with metal polishes.
Easy Tech III Modifications
- You will feel much better about your camera if looks good. The easiest way to make it look good is to replace its usually tired leather with a new body covering.
- The leather of the focusing hood is often torn. On top of that, it might look great, but it doesn't open or close as quickly as it might. Replace it with the superb all metal folding Graphic viewing hood from a late Speed or Crown Graphic.
- Most original III's have the original ground glass, which can be rather dim. One of the best investments you can make is to replace its ground glass with a modern bright focusing screen. You can buy a Fresnel screen which simply goes over the ground glass. You can install this type yourself. A better solution is the 'Super Screen' which should be installed by a good repairman. It has a ground glass and Fresnel screen combined and is a HUGE improvement over the ground glass only. Much, Much brighter and easier to focus. You will be glad you did.
Tech III Operating Tips
If you are new to Techs, the hardest things to figure out will most likely be:
Front Swings: On the lower left edge of the front standard, as you are facing it, is a flat chrome lip. Press it downward, and rotate the front standard.
Front Backward Tilt: Notice the two buttons on each side of the front standard, on the outside of the yoke handle. Push them in, and tilt the standard back.
Back swings/tilts: See those chrome knobs on the rear of the body? Loosen them and pull the back out. Set the back as you like, and then tighten them down until after the shot. You will have to focus by ground glass for this--the rangefinder will no longer be accurate.
To change the focusing cam, open the camera and leave the front standard in the body. Extend the focusing rail. That triangular chrome thing below the focusing rail is the cam. Just pull it out to remove it.
The focusing rail extends an extra five inches or so by depressing the two chrome lips on the right lower side of the focusing rail (as you are facing it). Then pull it out manually, or womanly, as the case might be. It is not geared. Remember to UNLATCH the little metal catches on either side of the bellows before you do this, or you run the risk of tearing your bellows.
The back just revolves, turn it and you will see. No lock.
To remove the anatomical grip, push inward on the chrome lip at the bottom of the grip mount, and then slide the grip DOWNWARD. The little lever on the top of the grip mount must be pointing down.
Early Tech III's were not made with the Graflok aka International backs, only Version 5 left the factory that way. It could be fitted to earlier models. To unlock this version, push the chrome locking latches OUTWARD on either side. The focusing back will just slide off in the direction of the center finger hold. Be careful not to drop it.
In some ways the III is the wonderful older sister everyone ignores because of the beautiful younger sister. The III is a VERY competent camera, just very over shadowed by the IV and later cameras. Detractors forget the III still outperforms ALL of the Graphic press cameras in terms of precision, rugged construction and movements.
The much improved Tech IV was made 1956 to 1964. Serial numbers started from # 62501. From 70500 top of RF housing is flush with top of body. IV's usually have tan leather. Features include:
- Larger, stronger body
- Front swings available for first time.
- Optical Center lens tilts instead of base backward tilt only.
- Movable infinity stops on focusing track make it easy to use different lenses
- New type of lens board (not interchangeable with III's) which became standard on all later Techs.
- Improved Graflok or international back design makes using 120 film backs or Polaroid backs easy.
- RF coupling 75 to 360 lenses. 65 lenses with expensive wide angle focusing device.
- RF cams STILL are not standardized. Cams ground for a IV are ONLY accurate for THAT camera and with THAT lens. While you can physically interchange them, focusing accuracy will probably suffer.
- IV's were made with and without the RF. With RF it's a Super Technika, without RF it's a Technika.
- Later IV's have a removable accessory shoe. You unscrew a knob underneath the shoe and find a tripod socket. Believe it or not, this is to mount the camera upside down for extra wide angle movements.
- The Body Rigidity of the IV and later cameras is amazing. Put it besides another make and you will see what I mean.
- The Tech IV has the simplest, and probably the strongest, front standard of the IV/V/Master series. I'm told this makes it popular in the Japanese market.
Tech IV Weak Points:
- 90 & 75 lenses are difficult to use on the IV, wider than 75 is possible, but a real pain with the incredibly expensive 'wide angle focusing device.' For 90 and wider you will have to use the drop bed to avoid it being in the picture. The lens rise is by knob, and this is very difficult to grip on a short lens with its minimum of bellows extension. Note these comments also apply to the Tech III.
- The Glue on the leather body inserts is of very poor quality. The leather inserts frequently pop off and are lost. Original tan inserts are not longer available.
- The Bellows frequently has small pin holes in them. Linhof leather bellows are nowhere as durable as the plastic Graphic bellows. Neatsfoot oil will help keep your bellows pliable and healthy longer.
- Chrome trim corrosion is very common. When you store your camera, wipe it down with a oil cloth.
- The spring loaded front door hinge stops (attached to the inside body cavity) breaks with careless use. They are not cheap to repair.
An improved IV, Tech V's were made from 1963 to 1976. They are practically the same camera. A better name for the V would have been the 'IVa'. The V has all the features of the IV and then some. V's usually have tan leather.
- Standardized RF Cams.Finally RF cams for a particular lens can be interchanged between cameras. No longer do you have to send the camera and the lens back to the factory to have a RF cam made. Now just send the lens in. Marflex, the US repair facility for Linhof, will grind cams for your V (or the later Master).
- V's can most easily be recognized by the lever used for lens rise or fall. As the camera is facing you, its on the right side of the lens standard. This lever makes it a LOT easier to raise the lens standard with 90 or shorter lenses.
- The first V's had plastic tipped levers which are less reliable in service than the metal tipped levers which replaced them. The problem has a lot to do with people trying to lower or raise the lens past its limits. Techs do not suffer fools easily. To change the up/down position of the rise, rotate the end of the metal lever. The white dot position (up or down) indicates the position that the lens standard will move. This is an expensive repair, so make sure it works right.
- V's and IV's were made with and without the RF. With the RF it is a Super Technika, without it's a Technika. Some sources say 'Super Technika' applies to both body types, but that's not what the Linhof books say.
- V weak points are the same as for the IV above. Original bellows frequently have pin holes. Often you can fix them with PlasticDip from the local hardware store. In contrast, older synthetic bellows in Super Graphics are usually perfect. Leather panels are often found missing from the IV's or V's. Unfortunately the original tan leather is no longer available. The only factory replacement leather panels available are the black panels for the Master.
HOW to spot the different RF Cams
III Cams are Flat, without the IV and later ridged groves which insert into the camera body. III cams will not physically interchange with the later IV/V/Master--and vice versa.The top of the cam has the focal length and serial number of the lens engraved upon it. The bottom of the cam has the serial number of the camera they are matched for. IF the camera serial number on the cam is before 62501 (the starting point for the Tech IV) the cam has to be for the Tech III.
The IV/V/Master RF cams will physically interchange. They can be quickly recognized because they have ridged grooves where the cam is inserted into the camera body.
IV cams have the serial number of the camera on the bottom of the cam AS WELL as the serial number of the lens on the top of the cam. Note that since the IV has a non standardized back, its cams will not dependably focus on the later cameras, or even on other IV's.
V/Master cams look the same as the IV cams, but ONLY have the serial number of the lens engraved. These cams can be accurately interchanged between V and Master bodies using that particular lens.
The Master Technika was introduced in 1972 and is still in production. Masters are slightly improved V's, which is to say, slightly improved IV's. Perhaps a better name for the Master would have been the IVb. Masters usually have black leather. The Masters do have slightly more movements than the V, but whether you can justify the big increase in price for such slight improvements is a logical question.
The Master's claim to fame is improved extreme wide angle movements by way of a top body flap which will move out of the way for extra movements with wide angles. In other words, if you don't work too much with lenses shorter than 90mm, the V will do the job just as well for a lot less.
Linhof's newest Technika is the 2000. It's a modified Master. The main modifications seems to be the removal of the optical rangefinder and mechanical linkages, and the addition of base track focusing in the camera body for wide angle lenses. This makes the 2000 body a bit smaller than the Tech V. The 2000's increased wide angle capabilities have finally done away with the wide angle focusing device for 65mm or shorter lenses.
As introduced in 1994, the 2000 had a optional, large, and expensive electronic rangefinder which was attached to the top of the camera. It was also completely incompatible with all previous rangefinder cams. The electronic rangefinder proved unpopular with consumers and was discontinued in 1998.
On the other hand, if you like Rangefinder focusing, the 2000 is NOT your best choice. Even if you prefer and can find a used electronic rangefinder, the V/Masters are a much better buy for rangefinder focusing . Even with the Master's $200 per lens fee for grinding a new RF cam, you will come out ahead dollars wise with the older cam system of the V/Master. On top of that, the V/Masters will RF couple to longer and shorter lenses than the 2000.
Someone must have used 2000's for sale, but I have yet to see a used one. Translate that into low production and happy original owners. It's an outstanding camera if your budget will allow it. Undoubtedly the 2000 is the best 4x5 Tech choice for super wide lenses. I'm told it's the choice of John Sexton. Too bad all of us don't have his talent. Well, maybe some of us do.....in my dreams.
Techs in other Sizes
Smaller versions of the Tech are often encountered in roll film 6x9 size. Most of these are older style III variations, but can be elaborate as a miniature version of the Technika V. Personally I never thought the small size reduction was worth the loss of 4x5, but to each their own.
5x7. There is a conversion back for 4x5 to 5x7, but they are far and few between....and rather expensive. There are also a few 5x7 Techs out there. Most of them are III's or IV's in my experience. I have never heard of a Master 5x7.
8x10? Yes. 8x10.A very small number.....16 to be exact were made. Again, very few and far between.......and expensive. But if that is what you want, let me know.
You may need to clean your Tech up, or perform minor repairs on it. Basic disassembly is very easy, so long as you don't over do it and get yourself into trouble.
To Remove the bellows and front standard from the body on the I, II, II, IV, IV and Master, all you have to do is 1) Loosen the four locking knobs for the back movements. 2) Remove the end caps for the four rear movement rods. Open your camera up, pull out the front standard to its normal position, and then look back at the inside case of your camera. You will see four metal rods with end caps screws on them. Unscrew and remove the end caps screws. 3) Pull the front standard forward so it is off its tracks 4) Pull the back off the camera away from its body, thus pulling the front standard and the bellows through the body cavity and away from the body. To install after cleaning, just do the opposite. Be careful about the bellows, otherwise you might tear it.
To remove the remove the revolving back off the body, rotate the back 45 degrees off square. From the back of the camera, look at the body of the camera you have thus exposed. Notice at each of the four corners there are four flat metal latches. Push them outward, they will move about 3/8'. With all four latches unlocked, the revolving back will simply lift off.
Used Tech Buying Guide
If you are on a budget, the III offers low price and more versatility than any Graphic. Yet I would avoid it unless it is in exceptionally nice condition. Think twice about paying more for an outfit with older RF cammed lenses. It's false economy as far as I am concerned. Modern lenses are sharper. Just resign yourself to not being able to use the Rangefinder with modern lenses. This is not important to a lot of photogs who remove the RF to save weight anyway. In other words, don't buy a Tech III unless is very low priced -- something you will seldom find. Put your money in a Tech V. As the world moves to digital and there are less and less large format shooters, large format equipment is dropping in price across the board, including Techs.
The IV/V/Master/2000 are variations of the same camera. All are much more capable than the III and are much more expensive (surprise). From a dollar to performance standpoint, the $1500 or so difference between V and Master bodies make the V an easy best buy in my eyes. If you want to use a 65, my personal solution is the addition of a Super Graphic camera rather than the very expensive wide angle focusing device, or the Linhof Color conversion listed below.
Used Tech stuff is often difficult to find. If you are just starting out in Linhof, think twice before turning down an outfit. It might save you a lot of time looking.
OFF Brand Lens Boardsare out there, made by a number of different people. The real ones sell for more new, and more used. Some generics I have looked at did not fit properly. I am told some work fine. Still, I personally prefer the real thing.
LENSES: Due to a reputedly high Linhof rejection rate, the odds are that a 'Linhof' labeled lens will be better than the same non Linhof labeled lens.
Linhof Color for Super Wide: If you are looking for a second camera for wide angles, this might be it. It will take lenses as short as 65 mm. It's a strange beast, basically a Technika IV front standard/bellows/rear standard mounted on an overly large monorail. While large and heavy, it has the SAME lens boards and revolving back as the IV. Compared to a normal monorail camera, they aren't too great in the movement department--but still very adequate for field work. As a result, they sell comparatively cheaply, $400-500 being an average price in the US. They were manufactured from 1958 to 64, when they were replaced with the more versatile but very similar Kardon Color which was manufactured 1964 to 1975.
Take a second look at the Linhof Color. I have seen home made conversions which remove the front and back standards to install them on a short, compact focusing rail. This will give you a VERY compact wide angle camera at a bargain price. I'm working on such a conversion myself. $600 for a poor man's TechniKardan doesn't sound too bad to me. Another possibility is substituting a bag bellows.
'Master' Tech III's, IV's and V's
The Master Technika's folding top flap for wide angle lens coverage is fairly simple, and probably a modification you could do to an earlier model. Apparently there is no real hinge used for the flap on the Master. Instead, it depends upon the bending of the leatherette. Strange, but true as far as I can tell.
Consult your local friendly machine shop. Three cuts, a hinge, and two little locks, and that's it!! Just remove the top leather first, then re-glue it. Only when you do it, do it right and have them install a real hinge. Unless you are skilled in metal working, this is not something you want to try yourself. Pay the few extra bucks, and have an expert make the modifications.
Rangefinder Focusing:Unfortunately Out of Fashion
Contrary to popular opinion, there is no art law which states photogs are only artsy fartsy if hunkered down behind a ground glass and tripod, with a dark cloth over their heads.
Most Technika's have built in rangefinders for fast, quick focusing. While Rangefinder focusing for large format was very popular in the 50's, here in the 80's and 90's it has fallen out of fashion. Today, most Technika users are fine art photographers who prefer ground glass focusing for careful composition. While this certainly has its place, so does RF focusing.
If the light or subject is quickly changing, practically the only way to get the image on film is with Rangefinder focusing. With practice it's quite practical to spot shots and take them hand held within 30 seconds from start to finish using the Technika's rangefinder focusing.
I am not suggesting that ground glass focusing should be forgotten, just that RF focusing often is--and it shouldn't be!!! It's an important function of your camera. If you don't learn to use it and add it to your bag of tricks, you will be short changing yourself and your work.
NOTE: If you like RF focusing, the best choices today are the Tech V and Master. Cams for the III are no longer being made, so you can't mate it with newer, sharper optics. RF cams for the IV are matched ONLY to that camera, so you have no versatility. RF cams for the V and Master can be interchanged between any V and Master, so long as you are using that lens. The new 2000 uses a now discontinued electronic rangefinder. Strangely, this electronic system is actually less versatile than the older one since it takes a more limited range of focal lengths and is not backwardly compatible with the RF cam system. Therefore, the V and the Master are your best choices for RF Tech focusing with modern lenses IMHO.
Linhof Technikas are great cameras. They are among the very few cameras still made today without compromise. The more you use it, the more you love it. If Leica made a 4x5 Rangefinder, it would be a Technika. High praise indeed. |
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Revised: January 11, 2004. Copyright © 1998-2002 Stephen Gandy. All rights reserved. This means you may NOT copy and re-use the text or the pictures in ANY other internet or printed publication of ANY kind. Information in this document is subject to change without notice. Other products and companies referred to herein are trademarks or registered trademarks of their respective companies or mark holders.
Linhof Technika Buyers Guide
This buying guide is meant to be informative and provide accurate information so you can buy the best camera possible, this information comes from experience servicing Technika cameras showing many different issues. We will continue to update, revise and pass on valid information in this guide.
*I do not agree with the suggested modifications listed in other Technika buying guides found online, these guides contains an abundance of misinformation and should be interpreted loosely.*
This guide is for Technika IV, V and Master cameras. The same basics knowledge can be applied to Technika III, though different models of III's have their own issues not specifically addressed here, in the future, time permitting..
Most of the vintage Technika cameras to be found now are 25-50 years old (even older for Technika III), it is reasonable to assume any camera you select, despite the condition/pictures and description will need a CLA service to be brought back to proper operating condition. The selling dealers or owners have no point of reference or knowledge to test functions and know if they are correct or out of tolerance.
Modern bellows generally last 10-15 years, so a camera built in the 1970s/80s/90s is probably going to need bellows replaced at minimum. The interest in large format photography again has brought many cameras out of the woodwork and into the open market for sale, this is a good thing, but double edged for buyers who believe a camera will arrive as turn-key ready to shoot. This is almost never the case for a vintage Technika.
Having hundreds of examples of Linhof Technika cameras pass through my hands each year, I can say the japanese sellers especially on eBay are overly ambitious and creative in the description of cameras. The words 'Top Mint' 'Near Mint' 'EX+++ Like Mint' mean nothing and should all be considered hyperbole. These amazing cameras are now aging and it is wise to budget for a CLA and bellows replacement before putting into regular use again.
The goal is to have an amazing tool for photography, that operates as intended so can concentrate on imagery not fighting with a cranky Technika. Another note is the cameras sold by KEH, Cat labs and some other used dealers are not much more desireable in actual function vs. grading rate. I routinely see these cameras described as one thing end up being completely in need of a full rebuild. It is just part of vintage cameras of this age, but the dealers do not advertise properly what they are selling.
Also, absolutely do not buy one of these naked stripped cameras missing all covering advertised as 'metal field camera', it is absurd that a dealer will remove the covering of a camera in order to increase profits. The covering, if original, can be matched for missing pieces or given new skin entirely, but a camera stripped and missing all pieces of covering is a disservice to all the effort that went into building it in the first place. There are also multiple cover shims under the original coverings that protect vital service parts of the camera.
A nice used Technika should be reasonably priced and in good working order . Beware of cameras with bargain prices or home 'modifications'. Your bargain camera can quickly add up to a much higher cost when it needs service. These bargain/home modified cameras do not retain their value and defeat the purpose of buying a Linhof. A camera with issues can be addressed, but don't purchase a camera bargain priced believing it will be a good investment, as repairs will quickly add up.
Some insight of what look for, what to avoid and reasonable expectations when looking to buy a used Technika:
1. Bellows should be supple without pinholes, excessive wear or taped corners. They should be installed straight inside the camera, many people who replace bellows install them crooked and sometimes even upside down (the seam of the bellows should always be on the bottom and not visible).
They should look 'right' and have correct spacing on all sides. Take the rotating back off the camera and check to see if the rear bellows edges are reasonably straight and not excessive amount of adhesive on the edges. If the bellows show exposed paper from cracking (as common with certain generations of Technika bellows) they need to be replaced. Check not just the corners but especially the bottom of the bellows for thinning spots and light leaks. A couple pin holes can be patched, but this is a temporary fix and others will start to appear over time. The Chinese replacement bellows are not very good, have a strong chemical odor and not consistent in build quality either, avoid them. A Technika should have the correct Linhof bellows installed.
The aftermarket Chinese bellows are also too thick, which does not allow the front standard to retract far enough back into the camera before closing. This causes the front standard to hit the middle track when closing. This in turn can also cause the rangefinder cam linkage to not disengage properly.. The correct Linhof bellows are the solution.
With the camera front standard facing you, look at the right side black clamp on the bottom of the front standard, if it has scratches on this part it is because the camera is not closing properly, either from aftermarket bellows or from the rangefinder cam linkage not disengaging properly when closing the camera. This leads to the cam wheel guiding linkage on the the middle track hitting the front standard clamp and creating these marks, essentially the middle track is pushing against the front standard to force into the camera body to create enough clearance for closing. I can look at pictures only of a camera and spot this immediately as the camera front standard is not retracting enough into the body before closing the camera. It can be repaired but it should be noted.
2. Does the camera show excessive oil in the door bed? Often owners just keep adding lubrication to make the camera feel smoother rather than addressing the cause of the problem. Ask if it has been lubricated and what type was used (WD40 is not a good answer). If the camera looks greasy/oily, there is likely a bigger problem being masked. Vaseline causes it's own issues in time, there are superior synthetic lubricants available today that do not break down over time.
If you are looking at a newer model Master Technika (mid 1990s-2005), pay close attention to the stiffness of focusing and movements. There was a different type of lubricant used on certain productions, it deteriorates and becomes almost glue-like, freezing the movements. We've seen 2000 and Classic models of this era that are barely movable, despite being in excellent condition. This can be corrected in with a CLA.
3. Check the focusing track, including the extensions for ridges and grooves, especially the lower track, run your finger along the track to feel if any spots are rough. Prolonged use of a camera with improper fit of the focusing track creates these ridges and grooves, sometimes they can be corrected, sometimes the entire track must be replaced. Avoid cameras showing these. Cameras with excessive corrosion to the chrome or rust showing on the internal hardware, have been improperly stored and will have issues being serviced. Avoid camera with excessive corrosion.
4. Check the rise/fall geared track. Technika IV used metal tracks that are less likely to have stripped gears. Technika IV and Masters use a black plastic track, which is very smooth, but prone to stripping if the ratchet rise is not used gently. Most often the first few teeth at the bottom of the track are stripped. I've seen everything from epoxy to gaffers tape placed here to make it seem like the rise/fall works properly, it's easy to miss if you don't look closely. If the black geared track shows signs of being stripped, is should be replaced, continued use with a stripped track will break the ratchet rise. The ratchet rise lever, both white plastic tip and later black aluminum, should be serviced if the track is stripped. When using the ratchet rise, it should travel through the full range of movement before you crank it again, this will prolong the life of the internal mechanism.
5. Swing movements should be smooth in both directions, the lock engages at the resting position only and should snap firmly into place (the movements do not lock when you apply your swing, only the resting is a 'locked' position). The shift movements should be smooth in both directions with a zero-stop click detent at the aligned red arrows. If either of these movements are stiff, it needs a CLA. Continued use with stiff movements will wear out components. Tilt movements should click in and out easily, with smooth movement in both direction. The tilt control knob should loosen and tighten smoothly. If the tilt engaging wheel is hard to push, it needs to be serviced before it seizes.
6. Check the focusing track lock lever, when in the locked position, gently attempt to turn the focusing wheels, the track should not move. When in unlocked position, you should not feel any resistance from the lock when turning the focusing wheels. If the track moves when lock is engaged, service is required. If the lock wiggles around excessively when engaged, it needs to be serviced or replaced.
7. Does the front standard have the proper amount of tension on the track? It should release easily and lock into place firmly, attempt to gently push the front standard towards the camera housing with locked engaged, it should not shimmy backwards on the track or wobble back and forth. When released, you should be able to move the standard forward and backward smoothly without feeling any rough spots. Push and pull the standard back and forth from the inside the camera to focusing track, the transition should be smooth and not feel like your hitting the sides of the track or having to apply excessive force. If this action doesn't feel smooth or requires excessive force to move the standard, it needs to be serviced and realigned. Continued use if this action is rough with break the standard base, tension lock and possibly ruin the track.
*When opening a Technika, first push the extension track backwards to the front standard rest track inside the camera body. The tracks should meet each other and eliminate the gap between. Only then should you release the front standard and pull onto the extension track. Once you pull the front standard onto the track, then reset extension track into normal 'zero' locked position.
The reason for doing this? By 'jumping' the gap and just pulling out the front standard, owners often break the corners off the front standard baseplate which guides along the track. The tension mechanism is also usually damaged this way. This is a costly repair and one of the most common. If you are considering a camera, look at this front standard baseplate and make sure there are no 'chipped' corners missing. Usually one corner is broken, the camera continues to be used, another corner is broken and then front standard will not lock into place, it's very easy to damage lenses from the front standard falling off the track.*
8. The locking knobs of the top and sides of the camera should travel smoothly, and stop at the fully unlocked position, they should not screw all the way off the camera. The two spring catches to release the back frame movements should be smooth to unlock, and both should lock easily, if they do not lock or unlock easily, service is required. Back movements should be smooth in all directions, not excessively loose either. Look at the back movement extension rods, they should be straight and not rusted or excessively oily.
9. If the camera has original leather, all pieces should be intact and matching, look for signs of being refit to the camera with poor glue jobs. If the camera has been recovered, ask if the metal cover shims with retained. These protect vital internal screws and that not be exposed to adhesives. You do not need strong chemicals to remove the original glue on a Technika when recovering, often people create bigger issues for service by exposing vital internal screws to these chemicals. If you *must* choose to recover a camera on your own..
All that is required:
An Xacto knife
Straight razor blades
Alcohol
Charcoal Lighter fluid (to remove stubborn adhesives, use lightly)
Patience and a lot of attention to detail. All old adhesive needs to be removed completely. It is a skill to recover a camera well. We offer recovering service for all models and do NOT use CameraLeather.com or junk Chinese leather kits due to poor fit quality and reliability of delivery. We custom laser cut leather coverings as needed.
10. Check the ground glass back to be sure it was properly fitted. Earlier Techika IV do not have metal 'zero' shims under the ground glass thus Fresnel lens is placed behind ground glass (closest to lens) groove side down.
Technika IV / Masters there should be four metal shims that zero the ground glass. Fresnel lens is placed on top of ground glass (closest to you) groove side side, then secured in place with Fresnel Clips. A Technika V / Master should have these four metal shims under the ground glass. If the shims are not present, someone has switched the back from a Technika IV (this is a common problem with used Technika V bodies and inspect/ask the seller).
11. Whether you use the rangefinder or not, with a focusing cam installed watch to see the cam travels smoothly throughout the focusing range. This is often 'adjusted' by photographers and out of alignment. The cam should never get 'stuck' requiring you to free it with your fingers. Look around the cam holder for damage to the door, often people will remove the cam and try to close the camera, leaving scratches and gouges on the door bed near the bottom hinges. The cam should 'engage' when you pull out the front standard and 'disengage' when you push the standard back into the camera.
The focusing cam should travel smoothly, rack the focus out forward until the cam disengages, then rack it back towards the camera, make sure the cam traveler catches the cam properly and the cam does not slip under the cam guider. You can often observe used focusing cams that have a long grinding / marring on the top by the serial/focal length engraving, this is caused at some point by the cam guider travel jumping on top of the focusing cam and the photographer continuing to use the camera this way, sometimes it was simply the door struts were dropped and the cam slipped under, other times the linkage is bent . When a focusing cam is bent, it will to no longer match the rangefinder at all distances.
Pay close attention to the focusing cam when the front standard is retracted all the way back inside the camera. The front standard controls the engaging and disengaging of the focusing cam linkage. With the front standard in the resting position inside the camera, the rangefinder cam should be in the 'locked' position and when you move focusing knobs of the track forward then backwards to test, the cam should not engage freely. If the cam moves freely when in the disengaged position, service is needed.
Also, it is often seen if the cam is not disengaging properly, opening and closing the camera, will start to pull the rangefinder cam out of it's shoe each time the camera is opened. This can then bend cams and make them no longer accurate.
If your camera has a rangefinder, it should always have a focusing cam installed so the camera opens and closes smoothly, even if you don't use the rangefinder regularly. Often the linkage that holds the focusing cam is bent and requires repair from photographers opening and closing the camera without a focusing cam installed.
I would not advise buying a camera if someone has removed the rangefinder themselves, as you never know what else has been 'adjusted'. Removing the rangefinder on a Super Technika decreases the resale value up to 50% and saves only a small amount of weight. These are very special cameras and should be kept original. If you desire a non-rangefinder Technika, buy one that was factory built this way instead of removing a complex and precision fitted rangefinder system...
12. The spring loaded camera door bed should open and close smoothly. You should feel the arm bed springs engage and the camera should open and close smoothly. Early Technika IV cameras are prone to having door problems and often 'fixed' with improper screws and methods.. Look for sloppy glue or hardware that is not original. There is not a single Phillips head screw inside Technikas IV V and older Master, if you see a Phillips head screw it is not original and probably not Metric either, meaning the thread has been stripped and an SAE screw has been used to cover this up.
13. Check the door latch to make sure it is not loose and the camera stays closed when the latch is engaged. It also should not be tight and look to make sure someone hasn't oiled or put adhesive on the latch. Look at the door latch catch inside the body and make sure it is not bent or broken.
14. Technika IV are prone to have the door strut spring hold down screw on the camera bed strip out over time. Check the door struts for spring-action and watch the screw used to attach the strut to the camera bed, it should not rotate when moving the struts, if it does, the threads are stripped. It can sometimes be re-tapped and a helicoil thread repair insert is used, if the thread is too far gone then a longer hold down screw and locking nut are the only option. Technika V also can experience door strut issues in time.
While the door strut attachment to bed was greatly improved on the Technika V (the spring action was moved inside the camera body vs. the bed on the Technika IV), over time the springs start to weaken from use, also the screws holding the spring assembly inside the camera become loose and the guiding mechanism for the struts become bent. It can be repaired, but it something to check for when inspecting a Technika V.
- Avoid the early Technika IV cameras before 66,175 serial number. Internal changes were made in production and these cameras have specific parts that were produced for only a short time. These are not worth retrofitting for end user when certain repairs are required. We can modify the IVs as needed, but it's unless the camera is in really nice cosmetic condition, it's probably not worth it for end user.
-While Technikas appear simple in construction, they are very complex built cameras, the strict tolerances and fit require a great deal of skill and knowledge to service and maintain a proper working camera. Unfortunately, Linhof camerasoften suffer from home repairs, performed by owners who are guessing, at best, as to how to service a Technika. Avoid cameras showing home repairs.
As with any precision instrument, Technikas require routine maintenance to continue optimal performance.
Buy the best camera you can, keep it working properly and concentrate on your photography.
We maintain a large collection of Linhof house cameras for testing and comparison purposes, multiples of all the different variations. There have been many changes to the construction of Technikas over the years, both minor and major. Often Technika owners don't have a basis for comparison of what the camera 'should' feel like. After service a Technika feels super smooth and just 'right'. Most often cameras sent for service have very stiff focusing and movements. A proper working and aligned Technika should have a very smooth feeling, without resistance or stiff feeling of any actions
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*A NOTE ABOUT THE TECHNIKA CAMERAS COMING OUT OF JAPAN ON EBAY*